Deep Dive: Domaine de Charron

Kissing Cousins

Archaeologists obsessively scrape the earth with the aim of finding the next Tutankhamun. Artists eagerly chisel marble in hopes of revealing their David. Golfers swing away, relentlessly chasing that perfect shot.

Armagnac lovers search far and wide for that next great mom-and-pop producer or that sublime bottle from a forgotten barrel in a cobwebbed corner of a tiny chai. We’re hunting a lustrous amber liquid that sings on the palate like a heavenly chorus of rosy cheeked and slightly tipsy cherubs.

Discovering Charron has been a revelation in slow motion. Initially I was bowled over by the rich, challenging and complex one-off barrel finds of the ’87 and ‘88 Domain le Chaou. Since more le Chaou simply doesn’t exist, it sparked further investigation into the source of the brandy. Where did it come from, and is there any more like it? I learned the eau de vie originated from the farm of Domaine de Charron, which prompted acquiring and tasting a bottle of the 1987 Charron. It was fantastic. That tasting naturally led to further exploration of more Charron vintages, which soon enough inaugurated Charron as a new favorite.

Tiny History of a Tiny Farm

Charron’s four acre vineyard in the hamlet of Perquie was purchased by grandma Largtigue in the early 1900s. The phylloxera plague was still seared in Europe’s memory, and so grand-mère planted the rich sables fauves soil with rows of the phylloxera-resilient Baco 22A grape. For decades, the grapes were sold into an Armagnac co-op, with the occasional barrel of eau de vie from the property finding its way into the family cellar. In 1985, papa Lartigue stated his desire to pull the vines, but the plan was opposed by his sons, Jacque and Charles. To settle the matter, the sons bought the vineyard and set about creating their own Armagnac label, Domaine de Charron.

Shaping the Spirit

Charron’s method of crafting their Armagnac follows the ancient traditions of the region, with one notable exception: Once the grape distillate is placed in a new oak barrel, the aging spirit is not racked, or transferred from its original new oak barrel to a used neutral oak barrel during its maturation process. Racking helps avoid over-oaking the Armagnac and exposing the maturing spirit to excessive tannin from the wood. Despite the deviation from convention, Charron is oaky but never over-oaked. This is likely due in part to the Baco varietal, as well as to the craft and care from an experienced cellar master. The result is a fat, round and sweet Armagnac layered with oak, dark fruit and tropical flavors.

On the Spectrum

The Armagnac flavor spectrum hosts many unique profiles and styles, one of the spirit’s greatest attributes. At one end is the perfumy, flowery folle blanche expression of a Domaine de Boingneres, and opposite that you’ll find the dark, earthy, piquant flavors of a Tenereze, like Chateau de Leberon or Chateau de Busca. In yet another flavor direction is fruity richness like that of Chateau de Lacquy. On this multi-dimensional spectrum, Charron stands somewhere between the Leberon and the Lacquy, yet it determinedly carves its own niche. Charron’s sweet, spicy, often tropical flavors have led some consider it the rum of Gascony, a notion the squat bottle only serves to advance. For me, Charron is a something of a maverick in its flavor profile while still remaining true to the grape and the rich heritage of the spirit.

Should you be inclined to wade into the amber waters of Charron, I hope you enjoy the discovery as much as I did.

TASTING NOTES #26

1985 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 2

Aged in Oak Casks for 36 Years; bottled 2/3/21

44.8% ABV

Color: Deep amber with orange and red highlights.

Nose: Red vines, dried apricot, lemon squares, anise, and the slightest trace of turpentine.

Palate: Dark chocolate, oak, toasted coconut, amaro, acetone, pine resin.

Finish: Scotch whiskey, almond skin, cola, strawberry, pine tar.

Score: 87

TASTING NOTES #27

1986 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 47

Aged in Oak Casks for 34 Years; bottled 11/5/20

45.7% ABV

Color: Orangey copper with gold and light orange shimmers.

Nose: Brown sugar, soft caramel, red berries, mint.

Palate: Nougat, peach, pine forest.

Finish: Kilned oak, dark toffee, unripened blackberries, black liquorice, soft Irish butter, alpine herbs.

Score: 89

Coming soon to Excellence Rhum (~$188, ships to U.S.).

REVIEW #4, Republished from Spirit Animals Essay

1987 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 53

Aged in Oak Casks for 33 Years; bottled 11/5/20

46.7% ABV

Color: Auburn with gold highlights.

Nose: Chocolate covered cherry, white peach, clove, antiseptic.

Palate: Full and rich palate that includes ripe plum, raisin, ample fresh oak, black tea.

Finish: Black licorice, rancio, Middle Eastern spices, mint. Long and lingering.

Summary: As the grapes were from the same vineyard and harvest, this Charron is kissing cousins with the 1987 Domaine le Chaou, lauded here. The Charron is sweet, supple, strong.

Score: 93

Coming soon to Excellence Rhum (~$180, ships to U.S.). As of 1/8/22 available at Gordon’s Fine Wines & Liquors ($225, ships to MA), Four Seasons Wine & Liquor ($230, pickup in Hadley, MA), Burlington Wine & Spirits ($230, pickup in Burlington, MA)

TASTING NOTES #28

1989 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 6

Aged in Oak Casks for 32 Years; bottled 2/3/21

47.1% ABV

Color: Orange amber.

Nose: Orange oil, brown sugar, dusty mechanics garage, cinnamon, pumpkin spice, clove.

Palate: Juicy pear, yellow plum, torrone. A lively palate with a soft, supple mouthfeel.

Finish: Frangelico, black coffee, ripe mango, jicama.

Score: 90

As of 1/8/22 available at Excellence Rhum (~$160, ships to the US), Ball Square Fine Wines ($200, ships to MA)

TASTING NOTES #29

1999 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 67

Aged in Oak Casks for 21 Years; bottled 11/5/20

48.5% ABV

Color: Light auburn with orange highlights.

Nose: Mandarin orange, soft red pear, coconut marzipan, vanilla, Caramel with peanuts.

Palate: Green pear, butter toffee, walnut skin.

Finish: Artisanal cola, rye bread, black pepper, golden honey, Mounds candy bar. Long and complex.

Score: 90

As of 1/8/22 Available at Excellence Rhum (~$118, ships to the U.S.), Malden Fine Wines ($140, ships to MA), Gordon’s ($150, ships to MA), Lighthouse Wine & Spirits ($150, ships to MA), Bitters & Bottles ($160, ships to CA)

TASTING NOTES #30

2003 Domaine de Charron

Fût no 88

Aged in Oak Casks for 18 Years; bottled 3/3/21

49.8% ABV

Color: Light copper with yellow highlights.

Nose: Tropical fruits, brown sugar, shredded coconut.

Palate: Unripe nectarine near the pit, chocolate, prune, oak.

Finish: Bright oak, pineapple, guava, coconut.

Score: 88

As of 1/8/22 Available at Excellence Rhum (~$100, ships to the U.S.), Plaisirs de Gascogne ($100, ships to the U.S.), Four Seasons Wine & Liquor ($140, pickup in Hadley, MA).

AOML Rating scale:

<75 Not recommended

75-79 Average, contains some flaws

80-84 Good, well-made Armagnac

85-89 Very good, an Armagnac with special qualities

90-94 Outstanding, an Armagnac of exceptional character and style

95-100 Classic, an Armagnac for the ages